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The Crystal
16
Design #: SMD-053 Specifications:
My philosophy behind this design is to keep it simple and light. The deck has an ample casting platform forward and two small platforms back aft on either side. These two could be spanned by a removable platform if you wanted a full casting platform back aft. Up forward there will be some storage and possibly a baitwell, although I haven't quite figured that out yet! Her hull is similar to the Osprey 18, a simple convex vee shape with about 6 degrees of deadrise at the transom. The bow has some flare, but not so dramatic that it will make her difficult to plank. There will be no chine flats as I don't want there to be anything on the bottom that will slap while you are poling. This will also make the hull simpler to build. If spray is a problem, some small spray rails can be added at the chine. Unlike the Osprey 18, the Crystal 16 will not have a built in fuel system. She will carry a 6-9 gallon portable tank back aft between the casting platforms. Just forward of the 20" transom, the cockpit sole ends, leaving a well in the keel for a bilge pump. Her batteries for starting and a trolling motor will be carried up forward under the forward casting platform. I feel more comfortable with a long starting cable than with a long fuel hose! I envision her powered by a 25 hp tiller steered outboard, which should push her around 27 knots. No consoles or steering system. Remember, the Crystal 16 is supposed to be a very simple boat! Her construction is something new for me, but I think it will be simple to build and more pleasant than a lot of methods. She will be strip planked over temporary particle board molds with light softwood, such as Western Red Cedar or Paulownia. The strips can either be fitted tight together as in traditional strip-planking or with a small space between the planks as developed by Mark Bowdidge in Australia. In the Bowdidge Strip-Planking Method, a small space is left (he uses tile spacers), then the gaps are filled with a thickened epoxy mixture and sanded fair. This is a very simple method of building and allows those of us who are not expert woodworkers to avoid lots of tight joints. The hull will then be glassed on the outside with a layer of 1208 double-bias fiberglass set in epoxy. Once faired and primed, she can be flipped over and the temporary framing removed. Fair the inside and add another layer of 1208 for the inner skin. Now you can epoxy in the 12mm Meranti marine plywood stringers and frames. Lastly, add the sole and the deck and you are pretty much finished. This construction method will yield a very light and relatively inexpensive hull. I am still working on the drawings for this design. As you can see from the images, I am designing this boat almost entirely in Ashlar-Vellum Argon as a solid model. This is quite a change from my traditional methods and more in tune with the times. So far it is working out well and has been a good learning experience for me. The plan set should include all the construction drawings as well as full size patterns for the temporary mold frames. I may also include patterns for the stringers and frames as well, although that is still to be decided. I have also yet to decide whether this boat will be available as some type of pre-cut kit. While it would simplify construction, it would add some cost. I am about to start the actual 2D construction drawings and hope to have the design ready by late summer. Update 10/3/11: I got a little behind working on a new production boat for a paying client. I will get back to the Crystal 16 in the very near future! Maybe it will be ready by Thanksgiving, but I'm not making any promses! If you have any questions about the Crystal 16 or any of my other designs, please don't hesitate to contact me. ©
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